Andreola: the quiet exit from Prosecco

Forty years after Nazzareno Andreola founded the estate that bears his name, his son has spent much of his tenure doing something that looks, on paper, like commercial self-sabotage: taking the word Prosecco off the label. James Bayley met him to talk about steep hillsides, vanishing labour and the risk of giving up the most valuable word in Italian wine.