’Even stones tell stories’: Inside the historic winery that’s survived world wars and a pandemic

An historic winery preserves tradition while adapting to shifting demand, industry oversupply and an uncertain future.

Inside a heritage-listed church in rural South Australia, Father Brendan Kelly pours sacramental wine into a brass chalice — a ritual that has remained largely unchanged for more than a century.

At Sevenhill Jesuit Mission in Clare Valley, the altar wine is grown, harvested and fermented on site, continuing a tradition that dates back 175 years.