Serbia rising

Amid the quiet grandeur of the Hapsburg-era streets of Sremski Karlovci, a town in northern Serbia, stands a remarkable building – remarkable both for its vivid byzantine/Hungarian-inflected architecture, and for the fact that, established in 1791, it was the first grammar school in Serbia. But it is also remarkable for the viticultural treasure it contains – a glimpse of a moment in vinous time and a reminder of...