The Buyer | The changing face of Koshu and the move towards terroir-driven wines

Once positioned as an ethereal curiosity, Koshu is changing fast to become more of a structured table-orientated wine. What has changed is not the grape itself, but the confidence with which it is interpreted and presented by producers, although Koshu’s delicacy is precisely what allows it to be expressed with such site-specific and soil-driven differences. Award-winning wine writer, Leona de Pasquale, examines how soil, altitude and microbial life are emerging as the true authors of Koshu style and then tastes a selection of wines grouped according to their specific soil types.