Why Graft is reaping big rewards by keeping it small and focused

Contrary to many UK-based importers, Graft Wine is having a good year with on-trade business up 20% year on year. The reason, according to head honcho David Knott, is the business model which is mid-premium focussed and works to the brief that good wine can come from anywhere. While many buyers like to deal with one major supplier, the Graft model is to be the 'significant other' – the one that has a focus on ‘small vineyard, low intervention’ producers and stocks all the interesting wines 'around the edges'. Chris Wilson reports from Graft's annual portfolio tasting and picks out 14 wines from the 177 classic and esoteric wines on show.