Wine Chronicles: Studio 750s Monica Stevens Sees Vintners Working Harder and Pricing for a New Generation

Summary: Monica Stevens, proprietor of Studio 750, a by-appointment tasting room in downtown St. Helena, says Napa Valley’s small producers are working harder and traveling more to sell their wines, and that her own sales are up this year because visitors are buying more, not because more of them are coming. She and Sep Pirchner, who has worked with her for 10 years, say younger buyers want Napa cabernet they can open any night, and that many vintners are answering with bottles priced under $100. They walk through the labels on their shelves, from Zakin Estate and Venge to Aviatrix and Neal Family Vineyards. “Folks in their late 20s, early 30s are, on the whole, making less than the generations that came before them.” — Sep Pirchner, Studio 750 Napa Valley Features is reader-supported. To receive new posts and support our work, consider becoming a paid subscriber. Subscribe ST. HELENA, Calif. — Many of Napa Valley’s vintners are working harder and traveling more this year than they ever have, selling their wines on the road and at home, while making wine from a 2026 harvest that is smaller than last year’s. That is the view from Studio 750, Monica Stevens’ by-appointment tasting room in downtown St. Helena. In the tasting rooms, hotels and lodges that greet visitors, Stevens said, many conversations now center on the idea of “unreasonable hospitality.” “Everybody here is trying to give it everything they have,” Stevens said. “We’re doing everything we can to encourage people to talk about how great their experience in Napa was, so they come back, or so other people come. You know, if you’re sitting around sharing your wines, we want people to say, ‘Wow, we need to go with you next time.’” Recently, she said, a couple staying at a nearby hotel planned to take an Uber to Studio 750. They were around the corner, so Stevens picked them up herself, hosted their tasting and walked them over to dinner at Charlie’s. Chef Elliot Bell owns and runs Charlie’s Napa Valley in the space that was once Cindy Pawlcyn’s Cindy’s Backstreet Kitchen. Buying More, Not More Buyers Sales at Studio 750 are up from last year, Stevens said, and the reason is the size of the purchase rather than the number of visitors. “People are buying more,” Stevens said. “Now, I’m not suggesting that we have more people coming in, but I’m suggesting that the people coming in are buying more. I don’t know if people’s financial portfolios are doing better. Certainly, the kind of wines we have, I don’t think the quality has changed or the price point. I just think people are spending more money.” Stevens and Sep Pirchner, who has worked with her for 10 years, talked about the valley’s new reality during a 30-minute conversation in late August. “People are starting new labels, stuff is still going on, but again we’re in the underground, right? We’re in the small production land. I don’t know what’s going on with Gallo or Cakebread,” Stevens said. “I would argue that the valley is not as doom and gloom as maybe the outlying industry in California and nationwide,” Pirchner said. A Napa Cab for Any Night Their clients still want Napa cabernet, Pirchner said, but increasingly one they can feel good about opening on any day of the week rather than saving for a special occasion. “The pricing is obviously something that everyone feels right now and we feel it here too,” Pirchner said. “But it’s about meeting your clients where they’re at, hearing them and being able to pivot and offer something that gives them satisfaction.” The clientele is also changing, he said, from baby boomers with full cellars to a younger generation that comes to wine differently. Those buyers tend to know less about wine, Pirchner said, and have not had access to, or the budget for, the most expensive bottles. “Let’s face it,” Pirchner said. “Folks in their late 20s, early 30s are, on the whole, making less than the generations that came before them. There’s less disposable income because what they have needs to go toward the essentials of keeping a roof over their head, and then everything else is a secondary thing.” So Studio 750 is bringing in wines that are “fun, still taste good, are a good representation of Napa,” Pirchner said, at prices that work for “someone who is feeling the pinch a little bit.” Stevens said the shop carries four or five Napa cabernets under $100, the kind of bottle to open for “Uncle Bill” and “Aunt Marge,” a phrase coined by her late husband, David Stevens. “You don’t want to open the great stuff, because they don’t know anything about wine,” Stevens said. “But you’ve got to have one or two of these in your home.” Those are wines, she said, a host can “be perfectly happy pouring for everybody, enjoying it yourself, but you’re not ripping into your cellar of goodies.” What’s on the Shelf The wines Stevens and Pirchner described come largely from small producers pricing for today’s market. Prices below are Studio 750’s and checked on the winery’s websites. Jan and Jon Zakin of Zakin Estate first made their Smokin’ Hot Red after bottling a small amount of cabernet sauvignon following the Glass Fire in September 2020, Pirchner said, and brought the label back in 2023. The 100% cabernet sauvignon comes from Howell Mountain fruit, from the Zakin estate and from Brasswood Estate, which adjoins their property. Philippe Melka makes the wine, with vineyard management by Pete Richmond’s Silverado Farming Company. The Zakins bought their 150 acres on the lower reaches of Howell Mountain, near Crystal Springs, in 1999. Smokin’ Hot Red is $90; the Zakin Estate Cabernet Sauvignon is $290. Teeter-Totter Cabernet Sauvignon, made by Bordeaux native Benoit Touquette from grapes grown in Calistoga, St. Helena, Yountville and Rutherford, is $65. Pirchner said it has enough craft to satisfy enthusiasts and “pops in the glass and is tasty” for people who rarely drink wine. “It’s an elevated drinking experience, but you don’t need to worry about hanging onto it for a special occasion,” Pirchner said. Calistoga’s Kirk Venge marked his 50th birthday this year with Nineteen Seventy-Six Cabernet Sauvignon, named for his birth year, at $65; he made about 725 cases. Venge has made Scout’s Honor, a mostly old-vine zinfandel blend from historic Napa and Sonoma County vineyards, since 1996. The latest vintage is 2024. “We’ve been carrying Venge Scout’s Honor from the beginning and it’s $45,” Stevens said. “So, no matter what everybody is saying, a lot of the vintners out there understand pricing … and they’re over-delivering for the price.” Will Phelps, grandson of Joseph Phelps, and his wife, Amanda, started Hensel West in 2024. The name reaches back to Will’s great-grandfather, Abel Hensel Phelps, who founded the Hensel Phelps construction company in Greeley, Colorado, in 1937. Joseph Phelps joined his father’s company in 1952 and was its president and general manager from 1957 to 1975, according to the company’s history. He founded Joseph Phelps Vineyards in St. Helena in 1973 and, with winemaker Walter Schug, released the 1974 Syrah, described at his death as the first varietally labeled Syrah in California. He died April 15, 2015, at 87. Hensel West makes a 2024 Hyde Vineyards Syrah, a Riverbound Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc and HWX Proprietary Red. The winemaker is Ashley Hepworth, who spent 15 years at Joseph Phelps Vineyards and now runs her own consulting business. Winemaker Mike Smith, a partner in Quivet Cellars, makes a Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon from Tench Vineyard in Oakville; the 2023 and 2024 are both $88. Celia Welch makes a cabernet from Sylvan Lake Vineyards on Howell Mountain. Stevens called the 2024, at $165, a beautiful wine. “She could have charged a boatload because she’s Celia, who makes Scarecrow. The wine is delicious,” Stevens said. Heidi Peterson Barrett, the original winemaker at Screaming Eagle, makes Aviatrix with her daughters: Chelsea Barrett is the winemaker and Remi Barrett runs sales and marketing. The lineup includes a 2024 Albariño for $38, a 2022 Grenache for $45, a 2021 Red Wine for $50 and a 2020 Santa Barbara Cabernet Sauvignon for $75. “If we’re talking top sellers, we would be remiss not to mention the Zeitgeist Cellars’ Trousseau Gris, which is our go-to summer white. We’ve ripped through all of it,” Stevens said. Zeitgeist Cellars is the St. Helena husband-and-wife team of Mark Porembski and Jennifer Williams. Their Trousseau Gris, from the Russian River in Sonoma County, is $32 and is “perfect, with great acidity and a little bit of citrus, and is just fun for everything that comes across your table,” Stevens said. Rockhound Wine’s Reed and Megan Skupny have made their second vintage of Hawkbox Rosé of Pinot Noir, a 2022 in a 1.5-liter bottle, for $85. Their 2022 Rockhound Pinot Noir, from the Sta. Rita Hills, is $63. Reed is the winemaker and Megan is “everything else,” according to their website. Reed is the son of John and Tracey Skupny, founders of Lang & Reed, whose St. Helena tasting room focuses on Napa Valley cabernet franc and chenin blanc. Laura Jones, co-owner and winemaker, started Sphaerics in Calistoga with her husband and business partner, Brian Ball. Their 2024 Overline Carneros Chardonnay is $80. Old Lions and Long Roots Robert Foley, who has made wine since 1977, has a winery on Howell Mountain in Angwin. Pirchner called him “one of the old lions of our industry.” “He’s certainly one of the living figures who led that step up in popularity for the valley. He’s really been there for the whole roller coaster ride. He’s a local guy and it’s really fun to tell his story,” Pirchner said. Foley’s wines at Studio 750 include his flagship 2019 Claret for $125, a 2019 Napa Valley Cabernet for $100, a 2020 Kelly’s Cuvée Syrah for $45, a 2021 Cabernet Franc for $125 and a 2025 Chardonnay for $40. Jack Neal and his son, Mark, of Neal Family Vineyards date their Napa Valley business to 1968, when Jack opened his vineyard management company at the family home in Rutherford. From their vineyard on Mee Lane they make a range of wines, seven of them carrying the Rutherford Dust name: a Cabernet Sauvignon at $130 and an Assyrtiko, Biodynamic Albariño, Fiano, Sauvignon Blanc, Vermentino and Zinfandel at $24 to $48. Studio 750 is at 1299 Main St., Suite A, St. Helena. Tastings are by appointment through studio750wines.com and are free, though the shop asks for a three-bottle purchase per person. — Dave Stoneberg is a long-time journalist and editor for Napa and Lake counties. Wine Discovery: 2025 Zeitgeist Cellars Trousseau Gris, Russian River Valley ($32, 223 cases) — Produced by husband-and-wife winemakers Mark Porembski and Jennifer Williams of St. Helena, this dry white wine comes from the Fanucchi-Wood Road Vineyard in Sonoma County’s Russian River Valley. Aromas of Earl Grey tea, wet sea stone, grapefruit and yuzu lead into a bright, textured palate with a subtle note of curry leaf. Lively acidity carries the citrus and savory elements through a clean, mineral-driven finish. Pair with fresh fish ceviche, grilled oysters or a Thai green curry. — Tim Carl Review This wine was purchased. Today’s Polls: Loading... Loading... Loading... 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